Helpful Hints

The key here is to mow when it needs it, instead of every seven to ten days as the average homeowner does. Normally, not more than 1/3 of the leaf surface should be removed at any one mowing. This means that if you cut your grass at a height of 2”, it should be cut when it reaches a height of 3”. Cutting off more leaf surface at one time will shock the plant and may reduce the root system.

Not less than 2”. During the summer months this could be raised to 2 ½” to 3”. Mowing shorter than 2” can weaken the root system and make grass more prone to damage from heat and disease.

No. The actual height of your lawn when the application is made will not appreciably affect the results.

You should wait at least 24 hours, 48 hours is better.

A dull blade can cause this type of damage due to the tearing and shredding of the tip of the grass blades. Have your blade sharpened and balanced regularly.

It has been determined that grass clippings should be picked up only when they are very long or very heavy. Results of the testing indicated that clippings do not increase the rate at which thatch forms and may return valuable nutrients to the soil as they decompose. If clippings are long or heavy, they should be removed to prevent damage to the lawn. For best results of your lawn spraying application, do not remove clippings for at least 2 mowing’s after the application.

A good rule of thumb is to water only when the lawn really needs it; every seven to ten days if no rainfall occurs. The lawn should have 1 inch of water per week. The cool season types of grasses we have in this area often go into a state of semi dormancy during periods of high temperatures. Growth of these grasses cannot be speeded up by heavy, over-watering during this period and may do more harm than good.

A thorough watering is essential for deep root development. Apply enough water to wet the soil to a depth of several inches for best results. Frequent shallow watering will harm your lawn and should be avoided.

During the daylight hours. Watering at night will increase the risk of disease.

During periods of adequate rainfall, it is not necessary to “water-in” our applications. At times when rainfall is lacking, watering will carry nutrients down into the root zone and will help the lawn respond faster. To obtain the best results, we would recommend watering that should be delayed for at least 24 hours following an application which contains weed control. After this time, watering will increase weed growth, thus increasing the speed and effectiveness of the weed killer. Other applications which do not contain weed control can be watered immediately.

Normally 3 to 4 weeks. This will vary depending on time of year, weather conditions, and how actively growing the weeds are when the weed killer is applied. An actively growing weed will absorb the herbicide faster and consequently will be killed quicker.

If it rains heavy too soon after the application has been applied, it may reduce the weed killers effectiveness. The length of “dry” time required between the application and the rainfall depends on how actively growing the weeds are.

We have selected the safest spray materials available and use modern equipment which has been designed to reduce drift. Our technicians are very careful to avoid any damage to your valuable landscape plantings – normally they stay 6” to 8” away from the plants to be extra safe.

There are a number of different weeds found in the average home lawn. Many of these are killed quickly after just the first application; while others die back and then regrow. The weeds which regrow are in a weakened condition and usually the second application finishes them for good. Another reason is that weed seed is continually germinating when weather conditions are favorable; new weed seed is blowing in and the additional sprays act as a preventative treatment to keep new weeds from re-establishing in your lawn. Remember, weed control materials kill weeds, not weed seed.

Without actually seeing it, a positive identification is impossible. It is most likely coarse fescue. The only practical way to eliminate this problem is to dig it out and replace it with sod or reseed the area.

Crabgrass is an annual grass which germinates in the Spring and then dies after the first killing frost. Crabgrass seed may lie dormant in the soil for many years until the soil is disturbed or until weather conditions are just right for it to start growing. For this reason, a long range control program is often necessary. The materials we use are very effective and should take care of the problem completely after several years.

White grubs, those commonly found in the lawn, are the larval stage of a number of different beetles. The grub stage feeds on the root system of the grass plants. Damage can be anything from minor discoloration to total death of the affected turf area.

Grub control is an optional treatment which can be added to your program. It is a preventative application and is a guard against destructive grub damage. We guarantee you won’t have grubs.

The moles are feeding on grubs and usually indicate that a grub control treatment is needed.

Chinch bugs are small insects which suck the juice out of the grass plants. They develop quickly during dry, hot weather. Sod webworms are often present in two stages of growth: the adults are small grayish white moths which fly above the lawn when disturbed; however, it is the larval and caterpillar stages that actually eat the grass blades. Beauty Lawn lawn spraying program can take care of both of these problems for you.

Turf diseases are caused by various forms of fungi. These fungi are spread by small spores that are easily blown about in the wind, carried to the ground in rain, and moved about on equipment and peoples’ shoes. When climatic conditions are favorable, this spore germinates just like a small seed and starts to grow-as it grows it attacks grass plants and causes spots on the blades, yellowing, die-back, etc.

Depending on weather conditions, it may have a very minor effect or it may literally wipe your lawn out.

The easiest way is to call the office, and we will send a technician out to make the diagnosis.

No. Due to the fact there are so many types of diseases, it is very difficult to control a disease once the damage is done.

The core aeration practice removes cores of soil from the ground approximately 2” to 3” deep, thus creating a void or hole. This allows penetration of air, water and fertilizer into the soil. It promotes healthy root growth and brings bacteria to the surface for better activity in decaying thatch and clippings.

A heavy layer of thatch prevents the movement of water, air, fertilizer and pesticides down into the soil, thereby causing a loss of vigor and increasing the chances of other problems. It also serves as an excellent breeding ground for turf disease.

We recommend that children and pets be kept off the treated areas until thoroughly dry (approx. 30 – 60 minutes).

Not unless it’s well on the way already. We promise good, satisfying results. Along with some help from you, your lawn can be something you will be proud of.

Leaves should be gathered at least once weekly to prevent the smothering of grass. Never allow leaves to remain on the lawn over the winter.

Cooling

The front lawns of a block of 8 average houses have the cooling effect of about 70 tons of air conditioning – enough to cool 16 average homes.

On a hot summer day, grass can be 10 to 14 degrees cooler than exposed soil and as much as 30 degrees cooler than concrete or asphalt.

Air Quality

A 50’ by 50’ well-maintained grass area will create enough oxygen to meet the needs of a family of four every day.

Acting like a gigantic sponge, lawns absorb all types of airborne pollutants such as soot, dust and carbon dioxide, as well as noise.
Less weeds means less weed pollen, a relief to those with allergies.

Water Quality

Studies show healthy lawns absorb rainfall 4-6 times more effectively than farm fields, being exceeded only by virgin forest. Lawns return the moisture to the watertable where it can again be used by everyone.

A Penn State University study showed thick lawns slow the velocity of run-off and allow the water to infiltrate 15 times better from a high quality lawn than from a patchy lawn with a lot of weeds.

Soil Quality

A healthy lawn prevents erosion by water or wind and the loss of valuable topsoil – less mud and dust in the house.

Aesthetics

There can be no argument that a beautiful lawn is immediately pleasing to the eye and relaxing in its appearance. Lawns help to soften and reduce reflected light – less glare.

Exercise

While some may scorn its needs, others find lawn maintenance requirements an excellent opportunity to enjoy reasonable exercise and a diversion.

Homes, sports fields and parks with healthy lawns provide safer recreation areas when grass acts as a cushion to reduce shock and potential injury.

Noise Reduction

While your lawn is busily performing all of these functions, you may not have noticed…it’s very quiet and has no moving parts! Good turf can absorb sound better than heavy carpeting.

Value

Appraisers estimate that a well-landscaped and maintained lawn adds 7% to the value of residential property. A Gallup survey concluded that a 15% increase in selling price can be realized when the home is nicely landscaped.